Worked example
An AC rated at 6A running 8 hours/day draws about 1.17 kW and uses roughly 9.38 units/day (281.52 units/month).
Calculate your AC's power draw
AC Power Consumption Calculator
From your AC's rated current (nameplate)
Power draw
1.17 kW
- Units/day
- 9.38
- Units/month
- 281.52
- Units/year
- 3425.16
Power = voltage (230V) × rated current × 0.85 power factor — a typical figure for an AC compressor motor. Your nameplate's actual power factor may differ slightly.
Reading your AC's nameplate
The nameplate is a metal or sticker label on the outdoor (compressor) unit for a split AC, or the side panel for a window AC. Look for a field labelled Rated Current or Input Current, given in Amps (A) — that's the number this calculator needs.
This route is especially useful for an older or resold unit: ISEER labelling only became mandatory in recent years, so a pre-ISEER AC may have no usable star rating at all, while its rated current is still readable — or measurable directly with a clamp meter if the label has worn off.
⚠ A note on electrical safety
Reading a visible nameplate is safe for anyone. Measuring current with a clamp meter inside an enclosure, or inspecting AC wiring directly, should only be done by a licensed electrician. Once you have the rated current figure, our circuit safety calculator uses the same number to check the MCB and wire gauge the circuit needs.
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Frequently asked questions
Where do I find my AC's rated current?
It's printed on the nameplate of the outdoor (compressor) unit, usually labelled "Rated Current" or "Input Current" in Amps (A).
How is this different from the AC running cost calculator?
The running cost calculator works from tonnage and star rating (ISEER), which is useful when comparing AC models. This tool works from your specific unit's nameplate current, which is useful once you already own the AC and want a quick power-draw figure without looking up ISEER tables.
Why does the calculator assume a 0.85 power factor?
AC compressor motors typically run at a power factor around 0.85, meaning real (working) power is about 85% of the apparent power implied by voltage × current. This is a typical figure — your specific unit's nameplate power factor may differ slightly.
Does this give me a cost, not just units?
This tool shows units (kWh) consumed. For a ₹ cost estimate priced at your DISCOM's tariff, use the AC running cost calculator with the daily units figure from here.
What does the nameplate actually look like, and where exactly is it?
On a split AC it's a metal or sticker label on the side or back of the outdoor unit, listing model number, refrigerant type, voltage, and current draw — usually as "Rated Current" or "Running Current" in Amps. On a window AC it's on the side panel, visible from outside the sleeve.
Why is this useful for an old or unlabeled AC?
Older or resold units sometimes have a worn, missing, or non-English nameplate, and ISEER labelling only became mandatory in recent years — so tonnage/star-rating figures may not exist for an older unit at all. A clamp meter reading of the actual running current, or a legible rated-current figure, works even when the efficiency label doesn't.
Can I measure the current myself instead of reading the nameplate?
Yes — a basic clamp meter around one of the AC's supply wires gives a direct current reading with the unit running. This can be more accurate than the nameplate figure, which is a rated (not real-time) value.
Is it safe to open the AC unit to check the nameplate or wiring myself?
Reading a visible nameplate is fine. Opening electrical enclosures, checking internal wiring, or using a clamp meter inside the unit should only be done by, or under the supervision of, a licensed electrician — see our circuit safety calculator for the wiring side of this.